Day 14. Sept 12.

Freiburg to Donaueschingen.

Distance cycled: 47 km #

Time: 3 hrs 24 min

Speed: 13.6 km/hr

Distance so far: 1724 km

AHR: 104 b/min

Feet climbed today: 2917 ft

Punctures so far: 1

         # Weather and visibility conditions forced me to take the train for the last 30 km to Donaueschingen

Weather: Cold as I left Freiburg. Rain started after 20 km. Fog came down with the rain. Negligible wind.

Up at 6.30 this morning and as no breakfast was provided, I availed of the common kitchen to have my own version with fruit and coffee.

By 7.45 I had left and taken my place with the early cyclist-workers in the city. Freiburg is the German version of Amsterdam. Cyclists moving (at speed) in all directions. Cycle lanes provided and some shared with pedestrians. Those I met were moving swiftly in top gear and could be more dangerous than cars. Bikes (some partly dismantled) locked and parked up outside university buildings and apartments. Even the cycle lanes outside the city were busy with cyclists of all ages and styles.

 I followed the cycle paths on Holzmarkt and Walstrasse always moving east out of the city.

Within 3 km I was in the countryside and moving upstream. This cycle path (well signposted) moved , away from the river into open fields and along by the busy road.

My plan was to cycle the B31 to my destination but I became aware that cyclists are prohibited on the initial sections of that highway. So I had to come up with a Plan B fast. I picked intermediate villages on the way and followed signs for them. All went fine till I passed through and reached Buchenbach.

Here, following a signposted track, I soon found myself on a trekking trail going steeply into the fog-enshrouded hills. Nothing for it but to retreat and seek a friendlier route. Back in Buchenbach, I met with a gentleman (evidently a cyclist) who indicated a good way (apart from the dangerous B13) but with stretches of 10% gradient.

I followed his directions and took the turn for Thurber, a 9.5 km constant climb ranging from 7% to 13% with most of it touching 10%. I dug in and kept at it, never expecting that the crest/turn up ahead was the final one. It was every bit as testing (cresting at 3600 ft) as the climbs out of Tendon and out of Gerardmer on the last two days. At this stage also, the rain had become constant and the rain gear and covers were on before the climb started. Especially near the top I noticed a lot of Calvaries (I didn’t snap them) but I think that I know how Himself felt on that occasion. Fortunately, that road was very quiet and I stood out in my hi-viz.

At the top, Thurner, I joined D500 down to Breitnau and between rain, fog and smooth wet surface I was becoming concerned. This led onto the busy B31 now (cyclists permissible at this stage) and it was a nervous ride right into Titisee.

I paused a while here and weighed up the options. Safety prevailed and I decided to take the train for the last 30 km to Donaueschingen. Dealing with the German ticket machine to obtain a ticket for a bike was proving difficult but a kindly worker man assisted by explaining that all I needed was two tickets. Job done and I boarded. (The short trip would involve a change at Neustadt).

Once on the train the officious ticket inspector (lady) demanded my second ticket for the bike. She already had her credit card machine whipped out. In steps Worker Man and explains that I have two on the one ticket. Saved. At the switch in Neustadt he also guided me to the correct platform etc.

In Titisee, I was soaked and badly shivering but the heat of the carriage revved me a little.

Once off at Donaueschingen Bahnhof (it was still raining heavily) I located the hotel quickly, checked in, parked up and had the most reviving hot shower of my life.

Within an hour or so I had recovered, washed the gear (the heated towel rail in the bathroom will have all in readiness for tomorrow) and unpacked. 

Later in the evening I had a quick walk around the town. I couldn’t get over how quiet it was for a Friday evening. And it did have plenty of upmarket shops. Generally, I have found French and German towns so far very quiet at all times of the day. No buzz.

There were some nice buildings, an impressive sculpture piece and of course, an Irish pub. (“Milan” play there next week). Seeing that Furstenberg beer is brewed here in Donaueschingen, I had to have a taste. Strong stuff at 4.8%. 

After the heights of McDonalds dinner last night I had to come down to earth tonight with Zweibelsuppe mit Gratten and Schweinachnitzel panniers mit Pommes Frites und salat for main course.

So, I suppose the rain had to come some time. Not bad considering this trip started over two weeks ago. I’m glad that we didn’t have today's weather last Friday as we set out from London.

Now, I’m on the Danube. My navigation switches to the two Bikeline guides I have, guides that give detailed distances and turns from here to Vienna. And I don’t expect any more major climbs.

I look forward with enthusiasm to the next week as much as I look back with satisfaction at the last two weeks.

Thank God for the health and for the energy.