Day 11. Wednesday Sept 10.

Neufchateau to Gerardmer.

Distance : 113 km

Time: 6hrs 9 mins

Speed : 18 km/hr

Distance so far: 1574 km

AHR: 109 b/min

Feet climbed today: 3672 ft. (Total 32,537 ft. Everest is 29,000+ ft)

Punctures so far: 1

Weather: Summery again. Warm and sunny up to 24 deg. Side-wind at start and then swirled in the mountains.

Felt fully recovered and fired up for today after yesterday's long haul.The body had really recovered and I felt that it had been recharging like the pulsing bars on the phone during the night hours.

At breakfast, I met up with two other cyclists from London (seniors) who were cycling from London to Venice (Italy). They had a third man driving a car and carrying luggage and they averaged 80 km per day. I left well before them after wishing them well.

In minutes I was outside of Neufchateau and already climbing while there were still darkish clouds in the sky. (No haze this morning). Within a few kms I had climbed 200 ft and had a fine view back over Neufchateau.

I was now in countryside more like our own. It was greener and more compact than earlier in the journey from Paris. More animals to be seen. At this stage I was just over 100 km north of Dijon as the crow flies. A bit far to drop down there to say hello to the friends of Tipp Co Op. Also not far from Vittel of bottled-water fame.

I moved along nicely but abided by all traffic and speed requirements (at least I thought I did) and got a big smile from the speed-sensor as I entered Dombaise en Xaintois. 

On the open road the head was down and low-flying jets (not to mention butterflies!!) found it hard to keep ahead of me as I approached Ramecourt.

I was now on a beautiful stretch of road with a fine wide shoulder (although it had long hills also). It was the safest stretch that I had been on since we entered France last Saturday.

But things were about to change as soon as a blue van with flashing blue lights and bearing the word “Gendarmerie” cut in front of me brought my progress to an abrupt halt. Two ban-gendarmes were out in a flash with hands on hips. “Bon jour, Monsieur” says one. The words wished me a good day but the eyes were saying “What the hell are you doing cycling on a road like this?”. She asked if I spoke French; I claimed my European right to conduct my affairs in Irish. We compromised on English. One of them had more English than my French, the other remained silent throughout. She explained that although this was not a motorway (“below a motorway but above a street”) cyclists were not allowed on it. I pointed out nicely that there were no signs or indications to that effect. In truth, I don’t know where I had come onto this reserved-for-motorists road. They enquire where I had started cycling and where I was heading for. My answer shook them.

I expressed my regret at violating regulations. They offered to put the bike and bags in the wagon and  bring me to the end of this stretch. While I stepped in, I got no hand on the head (!!) but I jokingly pleaded “No jail, please”.

On the short journey, just about 3 km, she asked where I came from. She’d love to come to Ireland. Asked where I lived, I mentioned Tipperary. No recognition. I started a few bars of “It’s a long way...”  “Ah, ja, ja, ja” says she with a sparkle in her eye. (I don’t expect that it was actually my singing that impressed her but the universality of our anthem.

When they droned me off at the end out came the black flip-over notebook and she asked for my identification, took down all the details and my address. Handy if she ever does come our way.

Before they left, I asked if I could take a photograph but they cited official policy. Understandable so I asked if it would be OK if I took a shot (with the camera, of course) as they pulled away. Pas de problem. Her parting words "Bon jour, Monsieur" but this time words and facial expression were in unison.

Who says that solo cycling is  tedious and boring. Always meeting interesting people. I must now behave myself till I leave France tomorrow at mid-day as my name is in the French system. Unless, they have forwarded my details to Europol !!

At this stage I was on the outskirts of Epinal and cycling along the banks of the Moselle. Not my first time as Margaret and I have cycled the German section of the same Moselle a few years back.

In the centre of the city, the quays were gaily decorated with flowers and European and other flags and mighty fountains caught the mid-day sunshine. A nice city at the centre.

Directly out of Epinal, I had a stiff 3 km climb to an elevation of 1400 ft. Roads were now shaded in and kept rising gradually, fooling the eye but not the legs (or the Garmin). I’m definitely in the Vosges Mountains.

With 86 km gone it was time to take a lunch break on Chenimenil just off my route. Bought a few soft drinks to go with my rolls and banana from the breakfast this morning. Took a seat in a deserted kids playground and enjoyed the food and the hills about. Had thoughts about an upgrade for the bike when I get back home !

Today was by far the most scenic day in France yet. Here in the Vosges it's like Wicklow; and it's high also.

This is skiing territory during the winter. At present plenty of walkers about here in Gerardmer. 

Plenty of climbs also. Near the end just out of Tendon started a climb of about 9 km with an average gradient of 6% sometimes touching 8%. It was down to the granny gear and plough along at a pace of 9 or 10 km/hr. Here I met my two friends from breakfast time again. I saw two cyclists up ahead and coming closer recognised them. I passed (have to keep your own pace going) them and one joined in behind but fell away after a short while. And they had no luggage on board. Didn’t see them for the rest of the day.

Shortly after Le Tholy, I crested a hill and Lac Gerardmer lay before me with Gerardmer at the far side. It was beautiful. It reminded of cresting and seeing Donner Lake below after the Donner Pass on the US cycle.

Nice spin into the town and I located my hotel at first attempt again. Very much a tourist town....skiing, walking and cycling.

Stage 8 of the Tour de France 2014 finished here just 1.8 km out the road; that 1.8 km stretch has an average of 10% gradient maxing at 13%. It was the first summit finish on this years Tour. I don’t expect that I’ll have a run at it in the morning.

So just another up eventful day in the life of a cycling tourist. Tomorrow I cross the Rhine into Germany.

Thank God for the health and for the energy.

PS: I believe some have been sending comments but are not appearing. I don’t know why. I’ve sent a message to Blogger re the same. Keep sending them anyhow.