Day 10. Tuesday Sept 10

Troyes to Neufchateau

Distance: 147 km

Time: 8 hrs 5 mins.

Speed: 18.2 km /hr

Distance so far 1461 km

AHR: 104 b/ min

Feet climbed today: 3055 ft

Punctures so far: 1

Weather: Hazy sunshine at first cleared by 10.30.  Started at 13 deg, peaked at 31.5 deg. Dry. Tailwind at first but headwind in afternoon.

I fixed that puncture last night...it was only a small hole (it always is). Still have 2 spare tubes.

Got a good nights sleep. No noise as the hotel was well away from streets.

All the cycling gear is now washed and dried as it was so warm during the night.

Today is to be the last of the long distances i.e around 150 km. All the rest will be nearer to 100 km.

On other cycles I have always dedicated days to someone or to some group. I’m not doing that this time except for today. I’m dedicating today’s effort to three people I’ve never met, to three people that weren’t even born when I cycled last year. Today I cycle for Hannah (Higgins), for Cathal (Leahy/O’Dwyer) and for Conall (O’Dwyer/Purcell). I pray that they will share on some of the health and energy that I have been blessed with, thank God.

I had breakfast in the hotel and prepared 2 rolls for lunch, but no meat or cheese on offer

The sun was low in the sky as I pulled out shortly after 7 and headed into Troyes..centre ville. After passing the large Michelin tyre plant I moved with the worker cohort to the old town. 

It’s a maze of canals and the city fathers have used this feature to beautify various sections. Plenty of 2nd and 3rd level students were on the move to their establishments.

After touring around the centre for a while, I hit for the D619 towards Chaumont. I headed directly into the hazy sun, a haze that lasted till 10.30.

Now I was in open gently rolling country much like yesterday...vast cultivation units tilled after the grain harvest.

I noted fields of sunflowers. Now sunflowers are basically black and amber when at their best. These fields were now well beyond their best, were a spent force, hung their heads after the exertions of the summer. Hope we can say the same about the other black-and-amber heads at the end of the month.

In yards I spotted plenty of old farm machinery; old pieces were abandoned in hollows in fields also.

In Vendeuvre sur Aube (37 km) I came on the road blocked by a protest of some kind. As I approached and swerved to use that road I got a rousing cheer of support from the group. Haven’t a clue what it was all about. 

Around the 50 km mark there was a distinct change in landscape and in land use. I noted sharper hills up ahead and slopes of vines. This is champagne country (I’m in Champagne/Ardennes) but I resisted to indulge so early in the day. Later I moved into Haute Marne and am now in Lorraine.

Had my morning break in Bar sur Aube after paying a visit to the cathedral of St Peter and Paul from the 12th century. Impressive inside from the stone floor to the strains of the organ....organist at practice.

Back out on the road along with the vines were yards of cattle in intensive feeding. Some of their brethren had a more relaxed time at their leisure in the open.

As I said yesterday, the fields are so stony and infertile looking. Later in the day as I approached Neufchateau the soil became much browner and redder.

For most of the day I cycled at 1000 ft or so, peaking at 1200 ft as I crossed into Haute Marne. There near Columbey les deux Eglises stands a memorial to Charles de Gaulle on a hilltop. There is a huge building complex topped off with an impressive Cross of Lorraine presiding over the wide countryside.

At Juzenncourt I swung off to the left on a lower class of road...cutting off the tr down to Chaumont and back up again. It was a refreshing move after the trucks of D619. The road surface didn’t deteriorate or did the number of hills increase. But, I did move closer to farmyards and to households. I rejoined the main road at Andelot after my lunch.

At this stage I had a headwind, had to pedal even on a -1% gradient and also ploughed through a 10 km stretch of freshly laid road (loose clippings). All of these factors added to the total climb of the day brought down my average speed.

Finally, signs for Neufchateau appeared after 8 hours in the saddle. I found my hotel at first attempt and was glad that I had it all organised. Wouldn’t like to have to search around for accommodation on arrival.

Really enjoyed the refreshing shower and a brief lie down befor heading down the street for refreshment.

A tough day but that’s the last of the long ones.

Thank God for the health and for the energy.