Day 10. Tuesday Sept 10

Troyes to Neufchateau

Distance: 147 km

Time: 8 hrs 5 mins.

Speed: 18.2 km /hr

Distance so far 1461 km

AHR: 104 b/ min

Feet climbed today: 3055 ft

Punctures so far: 1

Weather: Hazy sunshine at first cleared by 10.30.  Started at 13 deg, peaked at 31.5 deg. Dry. Tailwind at first but headwind in afternoon.

I fixed that puncture last night...it was only a small hole (it always is). Still have 2 spare tubes.

Got a good nights sleep. No noise as the hotel was well away from streets.

All the cycling gear is now washed and dried as it was so warm during the night.

Today is to be the last of the long distances i.e around 150 km. All the rest will be nearer to 100 km.

On other cycles I have always dedicated days to someone or to some group. I’m not doing that this time except for today. I’m dedicating today’s effort to three people I’ve never met, to three people that weren’t even born when I cycled last year. Today I cycle for Hannah (Higgins), for Cathal (Leahy/O’Dwyer) and for Conall (O’Dwyer/Purcell). I pray that they will share on some of the health and energy that I have been blessed with, thank God.

I had breakfast in the hotel and prepared 2 rolls for lunch, but no meat or cheese on offer

The sun was low in the sky as I pulled out shortly after 7 and headed into Troyes..centre ville. After passing the large Michelin tyre plant I moved with the worker cohort to the old town. 

It’s a maze of canals and the city fathers have used this feature to beautify various sections. Plenty of 2nd and 3rd level students were on the move to their establishments.

After touring around the centre for a while, I hit for the D619 towards Chaumont. I headed directly into the hazy sun, a haze that lasted till 10.30.

Now I was in open gently rolling country much like yesterday...vast cultivation units tilled after the grain harvest.

I noted fields of sunflowers. Now sunflowers are basically black and amber when at their best. These fields were now well beyond their best, were a spent force, hung their heads after the exertions of the summer. Hope we can say the same about the other black-and-amber heads at the end of the month.

In yards I spotted plenty of old farm machinery; old pieces were abandoned in hollows in fields also.

In Vendeuvre sur Aube (37 km) I came on the road blocked by a protest of some kind. As I approached and swerved to use that road I got a rousing cheer of support from the group. Haven’t a clue what it was all about. 

Around the 50 km mark there was a distinct change in landscape and in land use. I noted sharper hills up ahead and slopes of vines. This is champagne country (I’m in Champagne/Ardennes) but I resisted to indulge so early in the day. Later I moved into Haute Marne and am now in Lorraine.

Had my morning break in Bar sur Aube after paying a visit to the cathedral of St Peter and Paul from the 12th century. Impressive inside from the stone floor to the strains of the organ....organist at practice.

Back out on the road along with the vines were yards of cattle in intensive feeding. Some of their brethren had a more relaxed time at their leisure in the open.

As I said yesterday, the fields are so stony and infertile looking. Later in the day as I approached Neufchateau the soil became much browner and redder.

For most of the day I cycled at 1000 ft or so, peaking at 1200 ft as I crossed into Haute Marne. There near Columbey les deux Eglises stands a memorial to Charles de Gaulle on a hilltop. There is a huge building complex topped off with an impressive Cross of Lorraine presiding over the wide countryside.

At Juzenncourt I swung off to the left on a lower class of road...cutting off the tr down to Chaumont and back up again. It was a refreshing move after the trucks of D619. The road surface didn’t deteriorate or did the number of hills increase. But, I did move closer to farmyards and to households. I rejoined the main road at Andelot after my lunch.

At this stage I had a headwind, had to pedal even on a -1% gradient and also ploughed through a 10 km stretch of freshly laid road (loose clippings). All of these factors added to the total climb of the day brought down my average speed.

Finally, signs for Neufchateau appeared after 8 hours in the saddle. I found my hotel at first attempt and was glad that I had it all organised. Wouldn’t like to have to search around for accommodation on arrival.

Really enjoyed the refreshing shower and a brief lie down befor heading down the street for refreshment.

A tough day but that’s the last of the long ones.

Thank God for the health and for the energy.

Day 9. Monday Sept 8

Paris to Troyes.

Distance: 159 km

Time: 7 hrs 41 min.

Speed: 20.3 km/hr

Distance so far: 1314 km.

AHR: 114 b/ min

Feet climbed today: 2104 ft.

Punctures: 1.

Weather: Dry all day. Very warm in late afternoon...31 deg. Wind from NE was a disadvantage.

In my hotel I was up early (5.15) and had all packed and ready for breakfast shortly after 6 in a sister hotel around the corner with the dining room in a cellar. Had a good hearty continental breakfast and prepared two rolls for lunch and a boiled egg.

Paris streets were busy already. Especially around Gare du Nord. Washers were out spraying the streets and footpaths.

Because I stayed in near Gare du Nord last night I had an extra 20 km to do today. Still, I think it was worth it.

I had my map and cue sheet ready to get out to the south-east corner of the city. My route took me by Place de la Bastille with its column and the Opera Bastille in the background. Paris was quickLy coming to life but I found it easy to navigate and deal with the traffic.

I arrived at the point where the Seine and the Marne join up. The Marne comes in on the left and the Seine on the right. A kind gentleman (on a bicycle) when he saw me consulting my map at this point suggested the better way to cross the Marne and pick up my road. Also the kindness of people towards the cycling tourist was evident as I was heading towards the ramp onto an Autoroute (motorway). At first I thought the bus driver was saying “Ah, Cyclists” in exasperation but in fact he was just reminding me that “No cyclists” were allowed there. Later in the day I had good humoured shouts ( I think) from road workers when I got out into the country side. A benefit of touring by bike.

Exactly after 20 km I passed the hotel that I had booked for last night.

I had cycled 30 km by the time I had cleared the Greater Paris Area and saw an open field just near Santaney. I did feel a bit relieved at that point.

For the morning I was cycling straight into the sun...a change fron the previous 3 days. And the sun was warming up. The forecast was for 16 deg in the morning in Paris and 25 deg in Troyes in the afternoon. In fact it was 21 deg in Mormant at 10 am got and I saw 31deg written up just before the end of the day. At least It would assist in the drying of the washed gear.

So I was back on solo mode again. I was “Alone all alone”. I fact I sang a few bars to myself. I could set my own pace...that can be an advantage or a disadvantage. I neither received or gave any hand signals. Cycling solo means that you think more about safety, about traffic and about navigation. I did make a few short wrong turns, but even the best navigators do that !!!

The day’s route was flatter than the last three but still I had a few long ones to satisfy my cravings! Generally they were just 1% or 2%. The road was quiet till I came close to Troyes but it felt safe. once I picked up that road on the edge of Paris, I was on it for the day.

Industrial and agricultural activity along the way. All grain was gone but potatoes were being lifted and taken in. The fields stretched away into the distance on both sides.

Then, I had puncture No 1 today around the 70 km mark.I think it is just a pinch flat from going on and off the cycle paths in Paris. In 20 mins I was on the move again with a new tube in. 

I pulled into Provins hoping to locate a bike shop to give the wheel a good blast with a track pump. Didn’t locate one but everything was closed anyhow...lunch time.

Provins is now a quiet town having been bypassed by the new road. Streets showed architecture from times past. Provins has always had a great reputation for lace-work from medieval times.

Had lunch at Romilly sur Seine with a bit of class. Also crossed the Seine a little earlier as it wanders about before entering Paris.

Had no problem locating the hotel for tonight and was glad to have a shower and lie down for a spell before going to nearby Boucherie Restaurant. Didn’t feel like going too far and I also wanted it served up quick. Really felt nourished after my meat dish.

Shortly, I’ll have a look at that tube and repair it and then turn in early for a deserved rest. i’m getting there.

Thank God for the health and for the energy.

 

Day 8. Sunday Sept 7.

Amiens to Paris

Distance:150 km

Time: 7 hrs 2 mins.

Speed: 23.4 km/ hr to edge of Paris. 21.2 km/hr overall. 

Distance so far: 1155 km.

AHR: 110 b/ min.

Ft climbed today: 3397 ft

Weather: Dry all day. Fog when we climbed out of Amiens. Cleared and temps in upper 20’s.

After breakfast we loaded up for the last time as a group. Is interesting how a group moulds together after 3 ’short’ days. Bottles were filled and some bikes got a rub down for the entry to the city.

We pulled away at 7.20, ten minutes ahead of schedule. The streets were clear although the spire of the cathedral was in cloud/fog. A few turns and twists to get on the correct road for Paris. Our route would take us parallel to the Autoroute (Motorway) on D (departmental) roads.

Once we gained higher ground visibility deteriorated and eventually we all decided to don high-viz jackets. French cars were moving along very fast with no lights on. I’ll bring on one of these tops for the rest of this trip.

Today's roads were a pure joy to cycle on. Very little climbing for the first two hours with large open fields stretch away on either side. Grain had been harvested and the ground tilled for the next crop.

I was taken aback for the last two days with the few cyclists that we’ve seen. Saw one on Saturday and about five today. It usen’t be like that. You’d see more on the road from Tipp to Cashel. The route passed through very quiet villages and hamlets and by remote graveyards and churches.

At around 10 am the fog cleared, hi-viz was off and temperatures started to climb. It was also that the road started to climb. A number of long demanding hills but our legs are stronger now than on Friday when we started. 

When ground evened out we moved along at speed and it always paid dividends to draft in behind a rider. As yesterday some stretches of road were along long vistas of trees.

In one village Sunday market was in full swing with the smell of roast pig tickling our noses. Many other smells today also....freshly mown grass. Freshly turned soil, the usual morning smells from farmyards close to the road. Actually the soil didn’t look very fertile. It seemed very heavy and lacking in organic matter.

Morning breakfast was in Beauvais ...this is Paris according to Ryanair, but we had another 80 km to go.

 

Freshened and re-hydrated we set off again and I kept an eye on things in my rear-view mirror! One long climb went on for almost 3 km and registered between 5% and 8% but all arrived at the top in due course.

Our final major stop was at Auvers-sur Oise, the town where Van Gogh lived at the time of his death (1890). Here he painted 80 works in 70 days including the Church at Auvers. Bearing in mind his famous sunflower opus, the local Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) was fronted by a vast array of sunflowers.

As we neared Paris we left the wide open spaces and had the shade and shelter of trees on both sides.

The last 35 km was through the suburbs. Derek navigated us expertly along quiet roads and streets. This section of the cycle naturally brought down our average speed for the day.

Along by Stade de France and under the Peripherique we moved along by Gare de Nord. Here we had news that Tipp were up by 2 points at half-time. There was another 10 km along streets (many with cycling tracks) before we passed the Élysée Palace and out onto the Champs Élysées. This last part was rocky with all the cobble stones.

Adrenaline pumped as we crested the hill with our target towering above us. It surprised me how expertly we dealt with the crazy circle of traffic here and we had got right into the centre in just half. circuit. High fives all round, group photo, medals presented but the gendarmerie wouldn't allow us to uncork champagne. Just a few minutes to savour the occasion. And Tipp were down 4 points in the 64th minute.

Retraced our steps to Gare de Nord and met up with  with Pat and the van. Tipp had forced a draw and I’ll be back for the replay....the same as last year.

Showers were taken in a nearby hotel and time for a bite to eat and drink before the main bunch hopped across to the station for Eurostar back to London.

I remain here and set out solo tomorrow morning eastwards across France to Troyes. My own navigation and panniers on the back. but I’m looking forward to it.

Our 3-day cycle was remarkable in that there were no punctures, no major mechanical bike problems, no injuries of note but a few tender spots you-know-where. The group gelled magnificently in such a short time and in a very positive way. Everyone got satisfaction from the trip and all in a great cause. Later we’ll see on the JustGiving page how much funds were raised.

So, I’m back on my own again.

Now for a good night’s sleep and an early rise to attack the day.

Thank God for the health and for the energy.