Day 17. Sept 15.

Ehingen to Donauworth.

Distance : 128 km

Time 7 hrs

Speed: 18.3 km/hr

Distance so far: 2027 km

AHR: 102 beats/ min

Feet climbed today: 806 ft

Punctures so far: 1

Weather: Dry all day but little sunshine. Slight headwind from the north east.

On arising this morning spirits were a little lower than usual. But a good hot breakfast before pulling out from Hotel Garni Panorama and within 2 or 3 km I was happy as Larry and wouldn’t wish to anywhere else than on the saddle. That forecast was good for the day with no rain but light wind coming from the east or north-east. No fog or mist to contend with but I still had flashers on front and rear.

Early on I cycled by the road crossing the Danube regularly.

In Echingen

In Ulm.

In Donauworth.

In Ehingen, the river was considerable but by Ulm (36 km) it was now a major waterway. By the end of the day at Donauworth it had grown further and crossing bridges had become fewer and further apart. The city of Donauworth (where I finished the day) grew because of its bridge, one that had been destroyed many times. At present the bridge is being redone again, closed to traffic but open to pedestrians and cyclists.

Very few hills today, only short rises over bridges. In the first 2 hours, I had only ’climbed’ 150 ft.

My distance today could have been 3 km shorter except for a wrong turn. I found myself moving into a maze of small rough tracks through the maize (!). I took time out to consider and knowing that something was wrong I backtracked to the last signpost.

There I found my error. The finger post for Ulm pointed to the right (which I had done) but the arrow pointed to the left. Lesson learned.

The path today passed closer to the river than yesterday. By the Danube I cycled on gravel paths, sometimes moved away from the river on woodland tracks and also on paved lanes through crops, by roads and as usual through villages and allotments. At one stage I moved through great cultivation of cabbage and kohl rabbi.

At 36 km I came to Ulm a major city on the Danube. At this point I moved from Baden Wurtemberg to Bavaria, with its white and blue chequered flag as seen on the BMW marque. Now the Danube is a major waterway (still has another 2500 km to go before it empties into the Black Sea.

I detoured into the city through the Metzgerturm, one of the 14 century gates. The Rathaus (city hall) was an impressive affair with murals depicting the city’s turbulent history. The old city has a mixture of old and modern architecture, as might be expected in the birthplace of Albert Einstein. 

The Gothic cathedral boasts of the tallest steeple in the world (161.6 m) and it’s possible to climb the 768 steps to the top. I passed on that one?

My target was the Museum of Bread Culture, a private collection in the Salzstadl, a renovated storehouse of the 16C.

. On three floors it traces the story and importance of bread. It showed bread on ancient artifacts, it had old paintings of harvesting and baking. Bread as a political issue and tool was dealt with.

But,my favourite by a long shot was the painting depicting the kids excited to be helping in making Granny’s brown bread. I have seen this in real life.

Many times today I was on the receiving end of assistance from kindhearted people who spotted me consulting the map. Some people just coming out of shops helped out and chatted (through a combination of English and German); other times it was other cyclists I met at signposts...all of us in the same boat. One couple from Cologne that I met had cycled down from Donaueschingen, were turning right at Donauworth and cycling over the Alps and finishing in Verona (Italy) in two weeks time. Another local cyclist that I had passed out earlier pulled up to help me when I paused at a collection of signposts.

I didn't expect to see many leisure cyclists today (Monday) but there were a good number of laden pairs going in both directions.

The most impressive palace that I have come across so far was sin Hochstadt, the Pfalz Neuberg Palace whose renovation is almost complete.

The last 20 km into Donauworth was confusing. Many times I lost the signs but could see the steeples of the various churches ahead. The Reichstrasse is imposing with the Rathaus at the lower end and the cathedral at the upper.

By 6pm I arrived at my booked accommodation in Jugendherberge Donauworth, a colourful youth hostel. Very quiet here, I think I have to myself. Bike all locked up in the special garage and ready for a recovering night’s sleep.

Thank God for the health and for the energy.