Day 19.      Sept 17.

Kelheim to Deggendorf.

Distance. 128 km.

Time: 6 hrs 15 mins.

Speed: 19.4 km/hr.

Distance so far: 2270 km

AHR: 114 beats/min

Feet climbed today: 955 ft

Punctures so far: 1

Weather: warm and sunny all day. Slight south east breeze.

No need for an alarm this morning as M’Asal Beag Dubh outside started to bray at an early hour. Still it was a relatively late departure at 8.45am. I said adieu to my schaferwagen and rejoined the Donau Radweg on the dike of the river not 50 metres away.

Soon, I thought I would have to detour with tree surgery taking place along the path. But, the gent on the ground ordered operations to halt and he helped carry the bike over the splayed legs of the hoist.

Today also was the first barge I’ve seen. At Kelheim the Rhein-Maine-Donau canal connects with the Danube. The number of these will increase as I get nearer to Vienna.

Approaching Regensburg, I passed under the giant viaduct carrying the A3 across. The pillars so dwarfed my bike as I took a breather in the shade.

Regensburg is a large city located at the most northerly point of the Danube. For the last few days I have been generally heading in a north-easterly direction but from Regensburg I start heading south-eastern. The Bohemian Mountains that stretch right onto the Czech Republic forced the evolving river to turn down. Ironically, for the last few days the slight wind had been coming directly from the north-east. This morning, yr.no tells me that now it is going to be coming from the south-east. Not nice, but, still I have the fall of ground.

I detoured in through Regensburg through its narrow streets. It was only when looking back that I observed its huge cathedral towering above. Somethings are better seen from afar.

Just out of Regensburg, I noticed an big increase of touring cyclists. The Regensburg to Passau section of the Dabube Cycle is the second most popular part after the Passau to Vienna stage. Groups of these tourists were moving in both directions.

Just below Regensburg (at 50 km) is situated Valhalla presiding high over the Danube. It was built by Ludwig the First to honour great Germans and opened in 1842. It is modelled on the Parthenon in Athens, measuring 70m by 30m and is totally constructed of marble. Inside are busts of up to 200 Germans of note. From between the marble columns around are magnificent views right back to Regensburg. Every half-hour or so boats from the city bring hordes of tourists down who face a climb and 150 steps before the start on the 350 marble steps of the monument itself. I found the steps a relaxing change from pedalling. I met some who arrived by boat who couldn’t attack those steps and were satisfied to just view from below.

I passed on Worth (60km) as a spot for lunch although its abbey looks noble over the town. I opted instead for Rudlingen (82km) and dined by the bank of the river after passing down the Hauptstrasse with its tower.

Most of today’s cycling was on sealed surfaces and I generally moved along at 25km/hr but it is the villages and towns that bring the daily average down. Also, I spent more time on the drops (unusual for me) today and enjoyed it. The little unpaved parts were along the top of the dikes by the river.

Just on 120 km, I came into view of Deggendorf, my destination for today. A long market stretches down the centre of the city where the Gothic Rathaus is decorated with the crests of Bavaria and of Deggendorf. The first premises that I saw as I came off the cycle-path was The Shamrock, and Irish pub.

I knew that my accommodation was 4 km outside town but I didn’t realise that that 4km was all a tough climb. It was like arriving in Tipp town from Lahinch with a laden bike and then having to climb up to Aherlow House for accommodation.

On the climb up through scattered housing, thoughts of getting a dinner were getting fainter and fainter. But on arrival at Beim Krahwits cheered me up. It is a popular dining spot with magnificent views back over the city into the setting sun over the Danube below.

Quickly checked in, showered and had the most magnificent meal, the house’s Wedensday special Reindl Essen and companies by a bottle of Hausbier.

A lovely day’s cycling in glorious weather.

Thank God for the health and for the energy.