EPILOGUE

Mon and Tue.

Well, I got through a day (Mon) without being on the bike. Tough, but I did it.

Monday morning was spent trying to procure a box for the bike’s return. With all the bicycles around (since Freiburg) I assumed that bicycle shops would appear frequently. At home, seeing a few bikes outside a shop means it’s a bike shop. Not here. There are bikes parked up outside every shop. Often when I located one bike shop, they couldn’t tell me of any other such shops in the locality.

In a non-bike shop, I got directions to Vienna’s biggest sports shop over in the south-east of the city. It was a refreshing walk but I worried if they’d have a box. Level 1 suggested I check with Service Desk on Level 0. Level 0 suggested I check with Service Desk on Level 1. Things weren’t looking good. Eventually, I met a gentleman from the workshop area. “I’ll check” says he. I kept my fingers tightly crossed, and out he comes with a choice of two boxes. I metaphorically hugged him.

Luckily the Underground was at low capacity as I made my way home. At stations, people looked at me pitying yer man having to lug that enormous load around.......not realising it was totally empty.

Within a half-hour,I had the bike stripped and packed for the road home.

At present, I’m just waiting for the shuttle for the airport.

So, another adventure comes to a close. I have been so fortunate. Just 1 day of rain out of 23. No injuries or ailments. Some fabulous scenery and dropped in on a few celebrations. And over 1100 hits on this blog. I enjoyed writing it, hope you enjoyed reading it.

So, what’s next?

Slan agus beannacht.

Thank God for the health and the energy.

Day 23. Sept 21.

Herzogenburg to Vienna.

Distance: 84 km.

Time: 3hrs 50 min.

Speed: 21.4 km/hr.

Distance on total: 2674 km.q

AHR: 111 beats/min

Feet climbed today: 451 ft.

Total climbed: 47,119 ft

Punctures: 1

Weather: Clear and dry and warm all day. Wind from the south-west was helpful most of the time.

Rose at 6am and checked outside as the forecast mentioned rain in the early afternoon. All looked fine with a fresh helpful breeze blowing.

In Cleverhotel, an extensive breakfast buffet was available including boiled eggs done to your own requirement. I took on plenty of fuel and, as usual prepared a few rolls for lunch. Cleverhotel was very very satisfactory for my purpose; although not a likely destination for a honeymoon.

I had a 12 km journey back to the shores of the Danube with that fresh breeze in my back. Glorious.

Met the river at a busy marina, turned right and ghosted along at 25+ km/hr with the path to myself. The Rosa Bella was moving downstream at a more leisurely pace in the early morning sunshine.

I passed by a mighty never-completed nuclear plant with a story-book inn directly beneath. A clash.

Shortly afterwards, at Zwentendorf, just off the path, I heard the bells ring and noticed some people around the church door. Seizing the opportunity, I said I’d take in Mass. One of the ushers outside said that it was a special Mass, it was Erntedankfest Mass, a Harvest Thanksgiving Mass.

Immediately, the band led the parade around the corner followed by a tractor bearing symbols of the harvest and then the local people, young and old, proudly in their Lower Austrian traditional dress (as if they had just stepped out of a Sound of Music set) and then the bishop.

I entered the church with the congregation (the only one not in finery) and the first part of the Mass (all in German) was lost on me. During the bishop’s sermon I rested my eyes for periods.

It was quite clearly a mass of thanksgiving and it suited my sentiments exactly. Serendipity that I should have happened on it. While they thanked for the fruits of the harvest, I thanked for a safe journey with no troubles and mishaps. After the Mass outside I spoke to the bishop for a while informing him of my journey. I noticed that sunflowers and maize were central in the harvest arrangements.

Shortly after that, I missed a turn going into Tulin and lost time (or rather put on extra kilometres) Tulin is famous for its garden (which I didn’t visit) but the Rathaus Platz had its own floral show.

Vienna was now appearing on the cycle signposts...just about 30 km to go. I thought I could see it downstream. I thought that I could hear the strains of Strauss. ( I didn’t see any great evidence of BLUE Danube. It’s not a colour I'd associate with it. Must be another explanation.)

Finally, I spotted the top of the revolving telecommunications tower out to my left, and then the Vienna woods on my right. Navigation was easy now....just follow the cyclists.

At the iconic decorative chimney of the waste incineration plant, the path veered onto the Danube Canal that cuts through the city.

At Marienbrucke, I came up from the cycle-path and headed up Rotenturmstrasse. This led me to the heart of the city in Stefanplatz, where the jarvies were setting off with their tourist groups.

I stopped, stared up and reminded myself that I’d completed the journey. I’d made it. A feeling of satisfaction is an understatement. Another one done.

It didn’t take too long to locate my hotel, Now I’ll have two consecutive nights in the same bed. I didn’t have that luxury for a while.

After a quick shower, I set out to locate an Irish Pub to see the All-Ireland. Arrived at Flanagans just as the second half was about to start. A good number of Irish there in their colours. Support was mixed for both sides, but all agreed that it wasn’t an epic. Still, it was a chance to relax and relish a pint.

So, tomorrow is a non-cycling day but still things to be done to arrange for getting the bike back home. Worry about that tomorrow.

Thank God for the health and for the energy.

Day 21. Sept 19

Inzell to Saxen (near Grein)

Distance: 108 km

Time: 5 hrs 1 min

Speed: 20.9km/hr

Distance so far: 2478km

AHR : 107 beats/min

Feet climbed today: 919 ft

Punctures so far: 1

Weather: Cool in the morning but warm and sunny afternoon. Wind...calm in morning, slight south-east wind in afternoon.

My host at Gasthaus Heilegen Nicklaus had asked me to be precise about time for breakfast so I had said “7.17 am please”. He was amused as I entered the breakfast room exactly on time. A good breakfast and a few rolls set aside for my lunch also.

From my balcony I had looked out on the still smooth Danube in the early hours and savoured my trip today further downstream and set off at 8 am to complete my passage  through the Schlogen Loop.

Although I was travelling at an average of 20 km/hr, it took me 2 hours to cover the first 20 km. I was constantly stopping looking forward and looking backward at the magnificent scenery.

It was stunning. At this hour all was so quiet, not a sinner on the cycle path, not a puff of air, cycling most of the time at the waters edge just inches above the water.

The morning sun was throwing beams across the river, always changing as my direction switched from South to east to north. It was 20 km of unforgettable beauty. I don’t remember this part of the river from the last time.....one of the benefits of travelling solo.

No traffic on the river apart from ducks and swans. The far bank reflected perfectly on the still surface. I don’t believe any camera could capture the full impact of the moment. Those 20 km I would willingly travel again, at the same hour of the morning.

All of today's cycling was on sealed surfaces, sometimes along the top of the dike, sometimes along by busy roads but separated from it by a barrier. Occasionally, I shared the road with the motorists who invariably give way. Most roads have cycle lanes and cycle crossings.

After 50 km and with the day warming up, I crossed over the river to the city of Linz on the south-side. The markt-platz was busy, but I made my way to McDonalds to upload yesterday's blog. In Inzell the proprietor had wi-fi but it came on the telephone line, was weak, he was just 5 km from town and was a headache for him. I know the feeling. Satellite would cost him around €3000 per year.

With blog uploaded and fuelled by a large black coffee I passed back over the Nibelungen Bridge and carried on by the waters edge eastwards.

At this stage the Danube must be 600 metres wide and even wider just before the barrages (dams) that accompany the locks for barges. Big change from that small gutsy river back up in Donaueschingen last Saturday.

My principal off-course visit today was to the Mauthausen Concentration Camp which operated from 1938 till 1945. At its peak it had 14,000 inmates from 40 different countries occupied in the armaments industry and digging out granite in the nearby quarries for monumental buildings in Nazi Germany.

Once inside the camp entrance there is a strange silence. Few people move about quietly listening to the audio guides provided. The huts contain various exhibits but the Infirmary block has been developed as a museum of the Crime Scenes of Mauthausen.

Death came to the inmates in various forms...... by everyday violence on the part of the SS, by executions through hanging or shooting, by death at the camp perimeter (“shot while attempting to escape” or “suicide by electricity”), by death over the edge of the quarry, by deadly medicine or by poison gas. Over 3,500 died in the gas chamber alone.  It is estimated that between 1938 and 1945, over 123,000 died in Mauthausen by all these various means.Then there was the ’problem’ of the disposal of corpses. 

The first crematorium oven was in use from 1942 and a double one was added in 1945 and used till liberation.

I spent just an hour here but it deserved more. Such a negatively moving place. I didn’t have time to go to the granite quarries. The camp is located high over the Danube valley and so ironic that such a horrible place could be located in such a beautiful location.

Today, I noticed two very dufferent types of vending machines on the streets. Cigarettes freely available even in the smallest quiet town. Also vending machines for tubes for cyclists caught out with a  puncture.

At this stage with over 70 km done, it was time for a bit of lunch. Generally, I don”t do a sit-down lunch, just buy a few rolls and drink. Today, I bought what I needed from a well-known trusted brand. And it didn’t disappoint.

This evening, I knew that my accommodation was about 6 km away from the Danube. This time there was no climb involved and I located it no problem. It is an old mill that has been renovated as a cultural centre. I arrived at 5pm and asked all the usual questions.....wi-fi in the rooms?, time for breakfast?, where can I store my bike? and possible to eat nearby? All my queries were answered satisfactorily and in addition they offered their washing machine to do all my cycling gear. So, I’ll bet set up and no more hand-washing from here to Vienna.

In their own restaurant, I had a glorious dinner of Kirschragout with venison, accompanied by a pint of local beer, complimentary (I think).

So, time to rest up in this mill and prepare for tomorrow’s cycle.

Thank God for the health and for the energy. 

Day 20. Sept 18.

Deggendorf to Inzell.

Distance: 102 km.

Time: 5 hrs 9 min.

Speed.  19.7 km/hr.

Distance so far: 2372 km.

AHR: 99 beats/min.

Feet climbed today: 907 ft.

Punctures so far: 1

Weather: Warm and sunny all day. Slight wind from south-east.

Up early and ready to leave at 8.15 after breakfast and 2 prepared rolls packed away for the lunch. To my horror, my camera had gone on the blink. The screen remained dead although it was still recording images. It did flash on and off a few times. This is disaster.

I continued to take photos with it, but no viewfinder, no instant playback....just like the old days. I changed batteries, tried every combination of button clicks but no luck. It seems that it has had its day....not bad after 7 years. Judge yourself the photos that I took as far as Passau....all taken in the dark.

Shortly after descending (500 ft over 3 km) back into Deggendorf, I picked up the Donau Radweg and pedalled on. Before long my progress was halted by ’Road Up’ signs. I pretended that I didn’t understand (’from Barcelona’) and cycled through. Just a few patches were railed off for resurfacing. No big deal. Further on, I came across work in progress in strengthening the dikes with steel piles.

I dropped across into Vilshofen (36 km) and got great assistance in a (not busy) pharmacy. The assistant there furnished me with locations of good camera stores in Passau. Much appreciated. For the first time, I came across Danube cruise ships berthed up catering for this popular stretch of the Danube (Vienna upstream).

I had a fond glance back at Vilshofen as I passed eastwards by the riverside airfield.

I looked forward to coming into Passau (for the second time). Margaret and I cycled from here to Vienna in 2010 for a most enjoyable week in great company led by Andre (Mercurio). With barges plying the Danube up to here (and beyond) the lock system has to be maintained. As I passed over, a cruise ship had just entered a lock, gates were closing before filling the lock to raise the craft.

(All photos up to this point taken in the dark)

I spent a few hours in Passau for old times sake. Passau is known as the three-rivers-city as the Inn joins from the south and the Ilz joins the Danube from the north.

I went up to St Stephens Cathedral, the largest Baroque church outside of Italy. It has 5 organs that can be played simultaneously from a single keyboard; must be the largest in the world.

I made tracks to a big shopping mall on Bahnhof Strasse to replace my camera. It had an extensive camera shop (Saturn) but it was down a floor. I didn’t care to park my bike on the street so my laden-bike travels with me down on the escalator. I happened on a very friendly guy in Saturn (Fuchs) who assisted me no end in putting me up and running again in terms of travel images with a Panasonic Lumix. Pity that Saturn don’t take VISA.

For lunch (normally on the road) I resorted to a nearby coffee shop on Ludwigsplatz, principally because there were sockets available to charge up my new battery. I took my time over the coffee and sandwich.

With both of us charged up, I headed off down Ludwigstrasse, a popular lunch-hour cafe street. As I moved along I heard the strains of Molly Malone up ahead. Am I hallucinating? There was a busker with her accordion belting it out and sure, I joined in. Asked her if she was one of our own? No, from the Bavarian mountains but travelled a bit in Scotland (but never in Ireland).

I contributed to her artistic endeavour, and she wished to sing mother Irish song for me. She didn’t know any Tipperary song but suggested the ’Wild Rover’. Up she starts and I helped as best I could. We belted it out to the enjoyment of those around. ( I would have loved to have Gerry Ryan there). An enjoyable moment in a city that I have fond memories of anyhow.

I tarried a few hours in Passau before cycling on, on the northern side of the Danube.

From Passau to Vienna, a cycle path exists on the north side and not her on the south side. Occasionally, one can switch from one to the other at the infrequent bridges or by using the bicycle ferries (€2) that crop up now and again.

My route cycled along between the road and the river. River traffic by now has increased a lot between barges, cruisers and small tourist craft.

At Jochenstein, on a rock out in the river is Isa, reputedly a sister of the Loreley, the Rhine famous lady of folklore.

And, just after Jochenstein, at a tiny stream crossing the path, I passed from Germany into Austria. Now, there are new signs to reckon with. The cycle surface has changed..still good, and signs are a little more infrequent. 

Just before I finished today’s 102 km scheduled distance I had to cycle around the Schlogen Loop.

At Schlogen, the Danube came up against a ’stone wall’ and had to turn back on itself to find a way through. It was a dramatic view all within a few kilometres. My route was around the longer outside, but it was well worthwhile.

Finally, I arrived at my destination at St Nicholas Guesthouse in Inzell, a small settlement on the next curve of the river. My host was out to welcome me, shook hands, referred to my trip from Ireland and indicated which room was mine....Seomra 5. Since I left Ireland, this is the first time I have received a welcome. In previous places, it was just a matter of sign here, sign there. I complimented the host (and his young son) on his warm welcome. It really made a difference. Later, I found out that his wife has just had their second (daughter) last Tuesday.

My room looks right out on a turn of the Danube and I just relaxed for a while there after a refreshing shower.

At the evening meal, I met up with Klaus from Munich. He is cycling from Vienna to Passau and we a great chat over 2 bottles of the local Pils. He has been to Ireland walking and cycling.

Another fulfilling day although it started out with a possible disastrous technological disaster.

And into a new country in this trek across Europe.

Thank God for the health and for the energy.